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Old 05-14-2007, 12:23 PM   #1
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Should i Tune my car?

Hey guys i have the exhaust with y pipe and plenum spacer comming in wednesday to go along with an injen cai.. after installing the mods, would you guys recommend tuning the car? or should i just save my money? i will not be adding more mods for the next 6 mnths to a yr..
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Old 05-14-2007, 01:12 PM   #2
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Mine was running really lean with similar setup that I had to tune my car. Try to Dyno your car and read the AFR. If it's 13-14, you're prolly okay, if it's more than 14, definitely get a tune.
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Old 05-14-2007, 01:18 PM   #3
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You can't just tune your car. You'll need a supplemental engine management system like a UTEC, FCON, or Emanage. You'll spend over $1000 to get those installed and tuned but it will get the most power out of your car, safely.

With your mods, I think your stock ECU will be fine.
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Old 05-14-2007, 01:40 PM   #4
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thnks i think ill save my money now untill i get some other mods thrown on it.. thanks for ur opinion
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Old 05-14-2007, 04:06 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gilley View Post
You can't just tune your car. You'll need a supplemental engine management system like a UTEC, FCON, or Emanage. You'll spend over $1000 to get those installed and tuned but it will get the most power out of your car, safely.

With your mods, I think your stock ECU will be fine.
+1 ...... another way to do it is reflash...... but I'll save my money for EMU and other supplemental stuffs if I were you since gain for ur car coz of the tune would probably around 10 whp max (which imo not worth it).
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Old 05-14-2007, 06:16 PM   #6
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i would just save your $. until you start opening the engine or going fi, i wouldnt bother with an aftermarket emu.
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Old 05-15-2007, 11:48 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ATL_Red_G35 View Post
Mine was running really lean with similar setup that I had to tune my car. Try to Dyno your car and read the AFR. If it's 13-14, you're prolly okay, if it's more than 14, definitely get a tune.
Good idea, ATL...

It can't hurt to get an A/F reading, plus you'd get a dyno readout at the same time. If A/F was off, you could decide between an ECU piggyback/replacement or a re-flash.
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Old 05-15-2007, 01:47 PM   #8
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I found out after working at Forged for 2 months now. That tuning a N/A car just about pointless no matter what. after seeing all the cars at dyno day. the stock ECU will make sure everything is alright. tuning a car will help you get a little more power by seeing where YOUR car makes power as it being 12:1 or 12.5:1 or higher or lower. Not ever car makes the same power at the same A/F. tuning might get you more or it might not. if might be making the best power at the a/f levels that your stock ecu is making soo. yeah.

Save your money.
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Old 05-15-2007, 02:27 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by DirtyMechanic View Post
I found out after working at Forged for 2 months now. That tuning a N/A car just about pointless no matter what. after seeing all the cars at dyno day. the stock ECU will make sure everything is alright. tuning a car will help you get a little more power by seeing where YOUR car makes power as it being 12:1 or 12.5:1 or higher or lower. Not ever car makes the same power at the same A/F. tuning might get you more or it might not. if might be making the best power at the a/f levels that your stock ecu is making soo. yeah.

Save your money.
Wow, that's interesting!

Thanks for the honest answer.
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Old 05-15-2007, 08:23 PM   #10
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Wow, that's interesting!

Thanks for the honest answer.
but you know im going to tune my car once i figure out that i will really need a F-con and not that Utec stuff. lol Utec is deff the way to go if your not going to be a big baller and pass 500whp
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Anytime DM gives advice about your engine, trust him. But DON'T believe him on anything else in life. He likes to create his own "DM's Guide to LIFE" manual and its rather hilarious...
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Old 05-15-2007, 08:55 PM   #11
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btw, if you can't dyno and get the AFR reading, and your car doesn't throw any CEL code after a while, you should be okay.

Mine threw a CEL About running really lean, so I had to tune.


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but you know im going to tune my car once i figure out that i will really need a F-con and not that Utec stuff. lol Utec is deff the way to go if your not going to be a big baller and pass 500whp
F-Con....baller
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Old 05-16-2007, 12:59 PM   #12
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Quote:
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but you know im going to tune my car once i figure out that i will really need a F-con and not that Utec stuff. lol Utec is deff the way to go if your not going to be a big baller and pass 500whp
Hahahaha... I knew you'd figure out a reason to get your car on the dyno...

Did you ever dyno your G after you put the headers on?

My plan is to get headers and HFC's and see how she runs. After that, I'll check the A/F ratio with my Cipher and see what's up. Maybe make a new dyno run later in the year... If anything looks out of order, I might opt for a UTEC and dyno tune.
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Old 05-16-2007, 01:52 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ATL_Red_G35 View Post
F-Con....baller
oh you know how we do. Baller status in the hizouse.


Quote:
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Hahahaha... I knew you'd figure out a reason to get your car on the dyno...

Did you ever dyno your G after you put the headers on?

My plan is to get headers and HFC's and see how she runs. After that, I'll check the A/F ratio with my Cipher and see what's up. Maybe make a new dyno run later in the year... If anything looks out of order, I might opt for a UTEC and dyno tune.
i didnt dyno after my headers or reall anything else other than before and after of my crawford plenum. i was workung at forged at the time. but now everything i do will see a before and after dynoing session like i did with the plenum.

before the crawford plenum i was at 242.X and that was after many runs to get the runs fairly close to each other. then WITHOUT unstrapping the car i installed the plenum and performed many many many runs to get the max hp gain which was roughly 5whp lol yeah diappointing non the less but looking at the dyno chart. it just splits around 5500rpm and flatens out much better than before. which is better for .... racing.... i mean dragging..... at the track. but yeah. i deff felt it up top....

i did also think i felt the headers when i did them.(with stock cats at the time) then i gave a friend a ride. and he even said he felt it. then i ask where? and he stand it just seems to continue to pull past 5k... soo yeah i think they did something. he said they did something noticable. so blah... yeah.

I dont think you'll be able to see anything with the cipher considering the real a/f ratio. youll only be able to see it at idle just like an 02 sensor. and even then not the a/f itself just roughly what it could be by looking at the voltages. Unless you have a after market wide band a/f sensor.
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Old 05-18-2007, 06:34 AM   #14
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I just had my car dynoed on a dyno jet. At the end of the last pull the a/f meter popped off. If I'm ready my sheet correct it looks like at 2.5k rpm I'm at 15. Than at around 3.2 rpm its 13. At 3.5k it starts to creep up. At 4k rpm I'm at 14.I stay at 14 till about 5.5k rpm than it dips all the way down to 13.
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Old 05-18-2007, 11:29 AM   #15
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