Should i Tune my car?

[RANC3R]

Hey guys i have the exhaust with y pipe and plenum spacer comming in wednesday to go along with an injen cai.. after installing the mods, would you guys recommend tuning the car? or should i just save my money? i will not be adding more mods for the next 6 mnths to a yr..

[ATL_Red_G35]

Mine was running really lean with similar setup that I had to tune my car. Try to Dyno your car and read the AFR. If it's 13-14, you're prolly okay, if it's more than 14, definitely get a tune.

[Gilley]

You can't just tune your car. You'll need a supplemental engine management system like a UTEC, FCON, or Emanage. You'll spend over $1000 to get those installed and tuned but it will get the most power out of your car, safely.

With your mods, I think your stock ECU will be fine.

[RANC3R]

thnks i think ill save my money now untill i get some other mods thrown on it.. thanks for ur opinion

[Greatwars]

You can't just tune your car. You'll need a supplemental engine management system like a UTEC, FCON, or Emanage. You'll spend over $1000 to get those installed and tuned but it will get the most power out of your car, safely.

With your mods, I think your stock ECU will be fine.

+1 ...... another way to do it is reflash...... but I'll save my money for EMU and other supplemental stuffs if I were you since gain for ur car coz of the tune would probably around 10 whp max (which imo not worth it).

[w0ady]

i would just save your $. until you start opening the engine or going fi, i wouldnt bother with an aftermarket emu.

[__jb]

Mine was running really lean with similar setup that I had to tune my car. Try to Dyno your car and read the AFR. If it's 13-14, you're prolly okay, if it's more than 14, definitely get a tune.Good idea, ATL...

It can't hurt to get an A/F reading, plus you'd get a dyno readout at the same time. If A/F was off, you could decide between an ECU piggyback/replacement or a re-flash.

[DirtyMechanic]

I found out after working at Forged for 2 months now. That tuning a N/A car just about pointless no matter what. after seeing all the cars at dyno day. the stock ECU will make sure everything is alright. tuning a car will help you get a little more power by seeing where YOUR car makes power as it being 12:1 or 12.5:1 or higher or lower. Not ever car makes the same power at the same A/F. tuning might get you more or it might not. if might be making the best power at the a/f levels that your stock ecu is making soo. yeah.

Save your money.

[__jb]

I found out after working at Forged for 2 months now. That tuning a N/A car just about pointless no matter what. after seeing all the cars at dyno day. the stock ECU will make sure everything is alright. tuning a car will help you get a little more power by seeing where YOUR car makes power as it being 12:1 or 12.5:1 or higher or lower. Not ever car makes the same power at the same A/F. tuning might get you more or it might not. if might be making the best power at the a/f levels that your stock ecu is making soo. yeah.

Save your money.Wow, that's interesting!

Thanks for the honest answer.

[DirtyMechanic]

Wow, that's interesting!

Thanks for the honest answer.

but you know im going to tune my car once i figure out that i will really need a F-con and not that Utec stuff. lol Utec is deff the way to go if your not going to be a big baller and pass 500whp

[ATL_Red_G35]

btw, if you can't dyno and get the AFR reading, and your car doesn't throw any CEL code after a while, you should be okay.

Mine threw a CEL About running really lean, so I had to tune.


but you know im going to tune my car once i figure out that i will really need a F-con and not that Utec stuff. lol Utec is deff the way to go if your not going to be a big baller and pass 500whp

F-Con....baller :eek2:

[__jb]

but you know im going to tune my car once i figure out that i will really need a F-con and not that Utec stuff. lol Utec is deff the way to go if your not going to be a big baller and pass 500whpHahahaha... I knew you'd figure out a reason to get your car on the dyno...

Did you ever dyno your G after you put the headers on?

My plan is to get headers and HFC's and see how she runs. After that, I'll check the A/F ratio with my Cipher and see what's up. Maybe make a new dyno run later in the year... If anything looks out of order, I might opt for a UTEC and dyno tune.

[DirtyMechanic]

F-Con....baller :eek2:

oh you know how we do. Baller status in the hizouse.


Hahahaha... I knew you'd figure out a reason to get your car on the dyno...

Did you ever dyno your G after you put the headers on?

My plan is to get headers and HFC's and see how she runs. After that, I'll check the A/F ratio with my Cipher and see what's up. Maybe make a new dyno run later in the year... If anything looks out of order, I might opt for a UTEC and dyno tune.

i didnt dyno after my headers or reall anything else other than before and after of my crawford plenum. i was workung at forged at the time. but now everything i do will see a before and after dynoing session like i did with the plenum.

before the crawford plenum i was at 242.X and that was after many runs to get the runs fairly close to each other. then WITHOUT unstrapping the car i installed the plenum and performed many many many runs to get the max hp gain which was roughly 5whp lol yeah diappointing non the less but looking at the dyno chart. it just splits around 5500rpm and flatens out much better than before. which is better for .... racing.... i mean dragging..... at the track. but yeah. i deff felt it up top....

i did also think i felt the headers when i did them.(with stock cats at the time) then i gave a friend a ride. and he even said he felt it. then i ask where? and he stand it just seems to continue to pull past 5k... soo yeah i think they did something. he said they did something noticable. so blah... yeah.

I dont think you'll be able to see anything with the cipher considering the real a/f ratio. youll only be able to see it at idle just like an 02 sensor. and even then not the a/f itself just roughly what it could be by looking at the voltages. Unless you have a after market wide band a/f sensor.

[JUSG35C]

I just had my car dynoed on a dyno jet. At the end of the last pull the a/f meter popped off. If I'm ready my sheet correct it looks like at 2.5k rpm I'm at 15. Than at around 3.2 rpm its 13. At 3.5k it starts to creep up. At 4k rpm I'm at 14.I stay at 14 till about 5.5k rpm than it dips all the way down to 13.

[DieselNuts]

so, what were your #'s?

[JUSG35C]

I put down 245 hp to the wheels, and 230 tq to the wheels. Here is alink to website that is hosting my sheet. Just scroll down.

http://www.tsz33.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1498

[Konazo]

I put down 245 hp to the wheels, and 230 tq to the wheels. Here is alink to website that is hosting my sheet. Just scroll down.

http://www.tsz33.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1498

no good, asking for login and password.

[JUSG35C]

I don't know how to pix. Can I email to someone.

[Greatwars]

I think jb is right.... http://www.g35frenzy.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7610

[__jb]

I think jb is right.... http://www.g35frenzy.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7610I don't know how to pix. Can I email to someone.Try the link Greatwars posted. I wrote that article to help people learn to post pictures on Frenzy. It shows how to post pictures as attachments (very easy) and also from a hosted site (harder, but better results (and still free)).

Try it and let me know if you have any trouble. We'll help you out!

[JUSG35C]

Here is the dyno asa attachment.

[__jb]

Here is the dyno asa attachment.Good job posting the image of your dyno run!

Looks like your A/F is fine to me. I wonder why the second run was down 20 horsepower?

[JUSG35C]

Thanks for the complement. The second run was done in 4th gear. The dyno operator wanted to see how much power my car would put down in that gear.

[DieselNuts]

so i guess the other two were done in 3rd gear? What gear should our cars be dyno'd in?

[ATL_Red_G35]

so i guess the other two were done in 3rd gear? What gear should our cars be dyno'd in?


Others said that it's 4th Gear for 5AT but Sharif and other Dyno place did mine in 3rd???
for 6MT, I think it's 5th Gear.

[__jb]

I think most dyno shops try to choose the gear that's 1:1 for the "dyno" gear.

Fifth gear is straight through (1:1) for a 6MT... Fourth gear is 1:1 for an automatic.

[DieselNuts]

hmmmmmmmmm.......The times I have gotten my car dyno'd, it was at Mainstream performance. They really only work with hondas and im 99% sure they dyno'd my car in 4th gear. I'm guessing that because 99% of hondas are 5spd and Im sure their 1:1 is 4th gear. If I put down 234hp in 4th gear, would I show more in 5th?

[ATL_Red_G35]

hmmmmmmmmm.......The times I have gotten my car dyno'd, it was at Mainstream performance. They really only work with hondas and im 99% sure they dyno'd my car in 4th gear. I'm guessing that because 99% of hondas are 5spd and Im sure their 1:1 is 4th gear. If I put down 234hp in 4th gear, would I show more in 5th?


:grinno: it'd be less in 5th.

[DirtyMechanic]

:grinno: it'd be less in 5th.

no it wouldnt. they have to calibrate the dyno to the car for each gear.

doesnt everyone remember at dyno day the road speed calibration before we did the three runs. this also have to be done if you change the gear.

[DieselNuts]

well, a dyno day is coming up over there, so I will get them to do the first one in 4th and the second one in 5th and the third one in whichever was higher.

[jah81592]

You can't just tune your car. You'll need a supplemental engine management system like a UTEC, FCON, or Emanage. You'll spend over $1000 to get those installed and tuned but it will get the most power out of your car, safely.

With your mods, I think your stock ECU will be fine.
What about the Osiris tuning? Seems to be doing pretty well and also seems to be picking up substantial gains on mildly bolted on n/a applications

I found out after working at Forged for 2 months now. That tuning a N/A car just about pointless no matter what. after seeing all the cars at dyno day. the stock ECU will make sure everything is alright. tuning a car will help you get a little more power by seeing where YOUR car makes power as it being 12:1 or 12.5:1 or higher or lower. Not ever car makes the same power at the same A/F. tuning might get you more or it might not. if might be making the best power at the a/f levels that your stock ecu is making soo. yeah.

Save your money.
I have never seen where tuning hasn't picked up hp and torque. Manufacturers usually leave alot on the table.

Here is the dyno asa attachment.
Nice dyno sheet, seems a little lean in the "meat" of the torque range (14:1)-really too lean for max power potential. Then it lays down toward the end of the run, nicely. One thing to remember is that peak torque is where the most potential for detonation is. I would be willing to bet there was some knock sensor activity there (especially at 80*). If the a/f's were laid down to a respectible 12.8-13.0-max @ wot you would definately see a increase in torque and a more responsive/enthusiastic engine at the noted rpm range. I would definately recommend a tune for your application, it would definately be a safer setup.

As the threadstarter asked I believe tuning would be a good option to "tie" his mods together.-j

[__jb]

You're quoting some old threads... I think that might be before Osiris came out.

Osiris is a good product. I have it and like it... I also added a Haltech for better management and to get a dyno tune... but Osiris rocks as a product...

[DirtyMechanic]

What about the Osiris tuning? Seems to be doing pretty well and also seems to be picking up substantial gains on mildly bolted on n/a applications


I have never seen where tuning hasn't picked up hp and torque. Manufacturers usually leave alot on the table.


Nice dyno sheet, seems a little lean in the "meat" of the torque range (14:1)-really too lean for max power potential. Then it lays down toward the end of the run, nicely. One thing to remember is that peak torque is where the most potential for detonation is. I would be willing to bet there was some knock sensor activity there (especially at 80*). If the a/f's were laid down to a respectible 12.8-13.0-max @ wot you would definately see a increase in torque and a more responsive/enthusiastic engine at the noted rpm range. I would definately recommend a tune for your application, it would definately be a safer setup.

As the threadstarter asked I believe tuning would be a good option to "tie" his mods together.-j
if he was getting any knock at the said rpm. the stock pulls timing for any reason that i can. you would have seen a huge powerdrop if there was knock detected. N/A tuning is about the last thing you do if you want more power before you go boost. and every engine is different when it comes to tuning. even the same kind of engine with all the same mods. each engine will produce power at a different a/f and timing. nothing is exact in tuning.

[jah81592]

I currently have a clientel of around 400 customers for tuning in the Ford and GM world. I just got through logging a 2005 G35 and after looking at the logs it seems as if there is a lot left on the table. So my theory still stands. I don't see where tuning would hurt at any power or mod level. This G was stone stock and the a/f's were 13.4-13-6 through out the pull. Way too lean for any safe power production... I have seen this twice with the Nissan vehicles already. Power is being left on the table.

[w0ady]

I currently have a clientel of around 400 customers for tuning in the Ford and GM world. I just got through logging a 2005 G35 and after looking at the logs it seems as if there is a lot left on the table. So my theory still stands. I don't see where tuning would hurt at any power or mod level. This G was stone stock and the a/f's were 13.4-13-6 through out the pull. Way too lean for any safe power production... I have seen this twice with the Nissan vehicles already. Power is being left on the table.

i have seen enough dynos to say that the cars definitely vary a lot from factory. some cars would benefit more than others.

[DirtyMechanic]

I currently have a clientel of around 400 customers for tuning in the Ford and GM world. I just got through logging a 2005 G35 and after looking at the logs it seems as if there is a lot left on the table. So my theory still stands. I don't see where tuning would hurt at any power or mod level. This G was stone stock and the a/f's were 13.4-13-6 through out the pull. Way too lean for any safe power production... I have seen this twice with the Nissan vehicles already. Power is being left on the table.

there is some to get, how much are you thinking is left. but you have to remember Ford and GM are not Nissan and we dont have dissplacement like their V8's do. we arent saying that there isnt any power left but its just worth the money and hassel of sending your ecu out for a bone stock or only a few bolt ons. its usualy one of the last steps taken before FI. plus youll get a lot more out of the tune the more bolt ons you have. thats why its usualy a last step.